Sewing a Girls Maxi Dress – Stitching the Dress

Now that we have completed the neckline we can add the sleeves, we need to line the sleeves up print to print and then starting from the middle of the sleeve attach it to the shoulder seam then work your way around until the sleeve is attached then take it to the sewing machine and sew the sleeve removing the pins as you go, repeat the same for the other sleeve.

2015-01-09 21.35.12 2015-01-09 21.40.42

We now need to stitch the side seems now because im using a jersey knit fabric that only has a 1 way stretch that runs down the dress I will use a zigzag stitch the smallest one on my machine, this allows my fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches, Starting by folding the fabric and matching up the sides so that it looks like a dress begin to sew starting at the armhole, remember that you have a seam allowance and add this in this can be cut away once completed if your fitting is correct. Repeat this process for the other side.

2015-01-09 21.47.59 2015-01-09 21.48.29

Now that you have sewn your seams you should have what looks like a dress the only thing left is to hem the arm holes and the bottom of the dress, fold your seam half an inch and then another half an inch, Iron this and pin it into place. Take it to your sewing machine and stitch near the hemmed edge all the way around until you have completed all the seams

2015-01-09 22.02.16 2015-01-09 22.04.52

You should now have a completed dress, try it on your model if the fitting is well, cut away any excess fabric and you have completed your dress, I have included a picture of a dress I made earlier in maroon using the same process.

2015-01-01 12.54.55 2015-01-10 13.21.58

If you try this dress, let me know how it turns out and share your results.

See you Soon,

Sew & See

Sewing a Girls Maxi Dress – Drafting to fabric & Cutting

Now that you have got your basic pattern we are now gonna turn that into a basic summer maxi dress.

What you will need

  • Fabric (I’m using a jersey knit as it flows nicely)
  • fabric scissors
  • tailors chalk
  • measuring tape
  • ruler

Now let’s get started. Firstly you want to get your fabric and fold it length ways once you have this then you need to fold it width ways to the desired width for the bottom of the dress. I used a width of 40 cm for my nearly 4-year-old which i already had from an off cut of a different project.

2015-01-03 22.27.202015-01-03 22.27.42

Now that we have laid out our fabric we need to lay our back bodice piece onto the fabric along the fold line, this will give us a starting point for our dress.

2015-01-03 22.28.04

Using your tailors chalk draw around your bodice pattern, then get a ruler and draw a line from the corner of your pattern to the bottom corner of your dress, you should now see that you have a dress drawn out that we can cut it out along the lines.

NOTE: I prefer to do all this on a hard surface as it is a lot easier, but due to my office being moved to another room to make way for the baby boys room, I have to do it on the living room floor.

2015-01-03 22.34.122015-01-03 22.33.002015-01-03 22.35.09

Once you have cut your pattern out it should look like this.

2015-01-03 22.36.25

We need to adjust the neck depth on the front piece we do this by separating the 2 patterns and using our front bodice paper patter aligning it with the front dress piece and drawing out the neckline so that we can cut it out. (sorry i forgot to photograph this part.)

With the excess fabric that we removed from our cutting we will use for the sleeves and to finish the neck line. If however this fabric is not enough then use any remaining fabric you have. Take your fabric and check to see if you have enough remaining for the sleeves fold it if needed and lay your sleeve pattern on the fold, now draw around your pattern and cut it out the same way you did with your dress pattern.

2015-01-03 22.42.25 2015-01-03 22.43.122015-01-03 22.46.07

We now should have our dress patterns but we need to make the necklines, there are many methods of doing a neckline but for this one we will do the one I feel is suited best for this type of dress, we will do a post separately on the type of necklines and how to use them another day.

For this neckline using any excess fabric we have fold it and align the neck of the front bodice pattern on the fold, draw a line and cut the excess above this away.

2015-01-03 22.56.16 2015-01-03 22.57.15

Now you have cut the top away we need to move the pattern piece so we can work with the fabric, using the measuring tape measure 1 inch down all the way around following the curve that is currently set, draw a line to create a curve and cut this out you should end up with a piece like this

2015-01-03 22.59.01

do the same for the back piece, we should now have 6 pieces to make the dress.

2015-01-03 22.49.04 2015-01-03 23.02.35

Stay tuned where our next post will be to make the dress.

Sew & See

Getting Started – Pattern Drafting -Child’s Sleeves

So yesterday I showed you how to draft a pattern of a bodice using a current t-shirt that fits nicely, today I will show you how to draft a sleeve for that t-shirt. Now there are many ways to do this but this is my preferred method that has never failed me for what I need to sew it for and it does change depending on the garment I am making but I will come to that when I am making that garment for now this is how I do it.

Place your bodice pattern onto the end of a piece of paper, line up the shoulder stitch seam with the edge of paper it should look like this.

20150103_212201

Now that we have that lined up we need to draw along the edge of the pattern piece and add a little extra after the curve, this is your seam, it will help make sure you have a good fit and will also allow room for error, it can be trimmed away once your garment is complete.

20150103_212300 20150103_212319

You can use your T Shirt to get the length of the sleeve and how wide you want it but i chose to go 3 inchs down using 1 inch for hemming purposes and 5 1/2 inches across remembering that this already has 1 inch seam allowance

20150103_212441

this is what your finished sleeve should look like, this can be cut out and added to the other patterns.

20150103_212834

We are now ready to test them for making a garment.

See you soon,

Sew & See